The Grand Buddha of Leshan

Sunday, 09 September. We traveled two hours south from Chengdu to Leshan (le-sawn) to see “The Grand Buddha”. I went with Lin Yan and her daughter.
We drove through the farm lands to get there. The rice fields stretch across the horizon like Iowa Cornfields. As far as the eye can see, there is rice being harvested. A somewhat depressing area as the physical development is very behind even the Chinese standards. As we began to leave the low country and climb into the foothills, we also passed through the Tea Fields. These are terraced hills of tea plantations. This area is much better visually because of the rolling hills and more modern infrastructure.

Eventually, we reached the mountains and the Grand Buddha Park. A quick lunch in a roadside café where the food was great. The sanitation seemed a bit lax, but Lin Yan said it was OK, so I trusted her and the locals were, as usual, very excited to see an American – so we had a private room and the usual fanfare.

Now, before I describe the Grand Buddha, I need to digress for a moment to discuss Chinese patience.
Let’s face it; they have none.
Standing, driving, walking, cycling in an organized orderly line is as foreign a concept as nuclear physics. At the airport, they push and shove to be the 1st on the plane (even though it won’t leave until everybody gets on and seated). As soon as the wheels touch the ground, they get up and start gathering their belongings (even though the plane doors won’t open until it taxis to the gate and comes to a complete stop – and that might take 10 minutes). I have learned to just stand out of the way and let them fight on/off and then take my time after the stampede.

Back to the Grand Buddha.
The Buddha is some 1800 years old carved in the face of a mountain that is recessed slightly from the surrounding mountain face. It faces the intersection of three massive rivers (imagine three Mississippi Rivers converging). It is 231 feet tall (23 stories tall?). A man can stand in his ears; the feet are ten feet tall and can hold 30 people sitting on them.
It’s big.
To me, the more impressive thing about it is that 1800 years ago, some Emperor said “Hey guys, I got an idea. Let’s row across this rapidly moving river to that cliff face and spend 200 years carving a giant image of a Buddha out of solid rock and use only these wimpy little hand tools!” And then the people said “What a GREAT idea!”
I have visions of some stone mason going home at night, looking at his wife and saying with pride “By this time next year, I should be done with the left foot. My boss says if all goes well, I should get that big promotion to work on the Ear. He thinks I can do it easy in no more than 15 years. Wish me luck!”

So we pay our fee and enter. The trail (remember “trail” means “steps from hell”) is not too long and we quickly emerge at the top of the park surrounded by more temples, small carvings, a waterfall and of course the obligatory gift shop complete with photo store. From here, there is a very narrow and very steep staircase called the “Cliffside Road”that leads down to the bottom where you can see the entire carving (see picture). At the top, all you see is the head.
However, much to our chagrin, the entire country had arrived the same day to visit the Buddha - and there is a line.
A two hour line.
With Disney World style queue.
Back and forth. Forth and back. Easily 2000 people.
2000 Chinese people who would rather shove each other out of the way than have to stand in a line are now being forced to stand in a line.
And since Chinese don’t like lines and don’t have the patience for lines, they are trying to jostle their way past other “line dwellers” to move up fatder.
And we chose to get in that line.
That’s when a 240 lb, six foot American can come in handy; I fill up the space pretty well. Nobody gets past me! Well almost nobody.
We finally reach the Cliffside Road and begin the descent to the bottom - and that is pretty much where all patience ran out. Suddenly, the pushing increases and as you see in the photo, this is not an area where pushing would be considered desirable. It’s a long way down.
Some guy tried to push past me (like where was he going to go – I am right behind the person in front of me and the stairs are only one person wide!). I got really upset. I turned and wagged my finger in his face and loudly used one of my only Chinese words “Meio!” (No!) Then I went into a lengthy tirade and, knowing full well he had no clue what I was saying, said “Stop pushing. You see these people in front of me? You have no place to go. Trust me, That statue has stood here for almost 2000 years and so I doubt it is going to go anyplace in the next 20 minutes! It is after all, just a rock!” (then I remembered “Jason, and the Argonauts”, and well, I guess it COULD get up and walk away). But anyway, Lin Yan was so surprised by my outburst, that she actually translated exactly what I said to him. He looked at me like I was a crazy man but he stopped. The people around either giggled or glared. I didn’t care, I was tired of them pushing!
Somehow, we miraculously made it to the bottom without anybody getting killed! Total time 2.5 hours. As you can see, it’s a pretty impressive carving. Glad we went.

Admittedly, I’ve had about all the Buddhist and Taoist temples (and stairs) I need to see for awhile. I think I’ll study the tourist book Jianghui gave me to find some other attractions.